COOL AS KEITH

Some people develop a life passion over time, others have it flowing through their veins the moment they’re born. For Keith Malloy, surfing has always been in his blood. Born and raised in Ventura, California, Malloy followed his family’s footsteps to the water as soon as he could swim. He developed a taste for the lifestyle very quickly after watching his dad and older brother, Chris. And with his ability and athleticism, it was no shock when Malloy made surfing his career, eventually leading him to his current role as an ambassador for Patagonia.

But for Keith, it’s not just about the waves. When he’s not in the water, Malloy is outside as much as possible, rock climbing, paddling marathon distances on his paddleboard, and driving from activity to activity in a truck he rigged to run on vegetable oil. He makes a commitment to be in the water during every spare moment, even though he’s not entering as many surf contests as he did as a member of the elite World Championship Tour. Considering Malloy’s outlook, talent and opportunities, it’s unlikely he’ll get out of the water anytime soon—and really, why would he when it’s been the cornerstone of his life?

“I don’t consider myself an environmentalist—I just try to make the best and most obvious decisions for the times we live in.”

CM: What initially drew you to the ocean?

KM: My family. My dad surfed, my brothers surf, so it was something we’d all do together. I basically grew up at the beach.

CM: When did you realize you could make it a career?

KM: I never thought or expected surfing could be a “career,” but somehow it turned into one. After getting some pictures in a surf magazine, I received a big check from my sponsor. At that point I decided to milk it and see how long the “free ride” would last.

CM: You’ve traveled all over the world with surfing. What are some of your more memorable moments on the road?

KM: Surfing Jeffreys Bay in South Africa with my brother Dan is one of the most memorable. We were sharing waves on a six- to eight-foot day from the Indicator past Super Tubes. That, and living with my brother Chris in Hawaii when I was just out of high school…those first outer-reef sessions are still vivid in my mind.

CM: How did you become an ambassador for Patagonia?

KM: It was a sequence of events. I grew up surfing in Ventura, where the founder of Patagonia—Yvon Chouinard—lives and started the company. I have a lot of respect for the company and its philosophy. When the time was right, after my brothers and I spent some time with Yvon, it just all came together.

CM: Was environmentalism a natural progression for you?

KM: I don’t consider myself an environmentalist—I just try to make the best and most obvious decisions for the times we live in.

CM: For those who aren’t mechanically inclined, exactly what goes into rigging your truck to run on vegetable oil?

KM: First off, there is a big difference between veggie oil and bio diesel. Bio diesel is available at select gas stations and there’s no need for a conversion—you just need a diesel vehicle. Veggie oil, however, requires a diesel vehicle, conversion filters, and a heating system to heat the oil. It’s time consuming and pricey. I wouldn’t suggest veggie oil if you’re not mechanically inclined. I’ve done both. I prefer bio diesel, but either way, you’re cutting down emissions and supporting U.S. farming.

CM: So what does living a green, organic lifestyle mean to you?

KM: Living a “green” lifestyle for me means hugging trees and eating granola…just kidding! It’s about keeping it simple and making smart decisions on how we consume. There’s no way to not leave a footprint, though—we all leave waste behind.

CM: What kind of woman do you like?

KM: I like a woman who has all her teeth, can drink beer, and gut a pig.

CM: Tell me about the best date you’ve ever been on…and don’t spare any details!

KM: Me and my girl “Dirty Shirley” went up on the hill and were shooting the .22 scope over coffee, and she outshot me. Now that’s a turn-on. And a true story, I swear!

CM: So what’s going on with you now?

KM: I just got off a full summer. I met a dream woman, I went skydiving for the first time, sailed from Ventura to Cabo, climbed 3,000 foot El Capitan in Yosemite, and went on a hunting and surfing trip in Canada.

CM: What does the future hold for you?

KM: I’ll be working on a film with my brothers for next year and enjoying my time at home, playing with my new nephew.

CM: When you leave this earth, how would you like to be remembered?

KM: I’d like to be remembered as Santa Claus.

- words Carly Milne | images by jeremykoreski.com